US-Sonora border closed for “nonessential travel”

Early closure notice results in rush of holiday weekend visitors 

 

On Wednesday, July 1, in order to try to stem the rapid growth of coronavirus cases in her state, Sonora Governor Claudia Pavlovich announced that the border between Arizona and Sonora would be closed to non-essential (leisure) travel at three major border crossings, starting on the 4th of July weekend.

The operation, conducted in coordination with Mexico’s National Institute of Migration (INM), would place officials south of border crossings in Agua Prieta, Nogales and San Luis Rio Colorado. The Lukeville-Sonoyta border crossing would remain open to allow tourists to visit the coastal city of Puerto Peñasco, also known as Rocky Point.

Essential activities

The closure defined “essential” travel in the same way as U.S. border closures have, with the exception of being able to cross the border for education-related activities, which is not allowed.

Essential activities for travelers who want to visit Sonora include crossing the border for medical and dental services, to purchase medication and for legitimate business purposes.

Crossing the border for leisure activities is not permitted.

Rush to the border

As soon as the closure was announced, Arizonans packed their weekend bags and rushed the border to get into Sonora before the ban began.

But at the Lukeville border crossing, citizens and local police in Sonoyta essentially blocked southbound traffic on Friday. They stopped foreign vehicles and turned them around, not allowing traffic to proceed to Rocky Point. The blockade was disbanded before the weekend stream of traffic to Puerto Peñasco.

Lax enforcement?

On Friday, El Imparcial reporter Rubén A. Ruiz watched a checkpoint between Adolfo López Mateos Avenue and Campillo Street in Nogales. Operated by state police assisted by the Nogales Civil Protection Unit (UPC), in a two-hour period on Friday morning they turned back 12 vehicles from the U.S

But starting at noon, they began to allow all vehicles to pass and continued to do so for the time that reporters watched the checkpoint.

Current border closures

Currently, the border crossings at Douglas-Agua Prieta, Nogales and San Luis Colorado are closed to southbound non-essential traffic.

The Lukeville-Sonoyta border crossing should be open. However, due to conflicts between the municipalities of Sonoyta and Puerto Peñasco, there may be intermittent closures that prevent southbound traffic from the U.S.

Arizona-Sonora website

Sonora border remains open for American visitors

art along the border wall in nogales sonora

Editor’s note: Since this article was published, Sonora has closed its border to non-essential travel. Tourists can still cross the border for medical and dental services, and to purchase medication. Read more

Mexico and Border restrictions are targeted at Canadian and Mexican non-commercial travel

When the White House Coronavirus task force restricted “non-essential” travel from Canada and Mexico (with a few exceptions) last week, many thought the restrictions were reciprocal and also apply to Americans.

They do not.

The State Department also issued an international travel advisory last week that elevated every other nation in the world to Level 4, a “do not visit” recommendation. That advice is relevant but not binding, and the agency further advised that Americans currently in foreign countries should come home immediately or plan to stay where they are for an extended amount of time.

Many who live or have extended stays have started coming back as they realize that their insurance policies have been canceled. And that they do not want to be in the middle of a pandemic outbreak in an area with limited resources and medical care options.

Agreements not reciprocal

As mentioned, the border restrictions have a few exceptions, such as Mexicans and Canadians coming to the United States for medical care or educational purposes.

But Mexico has not enacted any restrictions to foreign visitors. And for reasons listed above, you probably do not want to travel very far into Mexico. But at this moment it seems there are reasons why you might want to visit a Sonoran border city.

Visiting Sonora border cities

The website Planet Nogales has posted some reasons for visiting the border, even during these times of crisis.

Border dentists and doctors use personal protective equipment (PPE), as always, to minimize the risk of pathogen transfer as they care for patients.

Border pharmacies offer discount medications that may not be available in Arizona, such as chloroquine and hydroxychloroquine. And it is a place where you can safely practice social spacing in the sparse plazas and shops, and in the short lines to return across the border.

Nogales dentist Dr. Victor Manuel Perez of Dental Advanced in Nogales, who has cut back hours during the border closure, has posted information on his website that explains how Nogales dentists are dealing with the coronavirus. Measures that include offering a medical prescription to clients that they can present at the border to show they were in Nogales for medical reasons.

Conclusion

The border is open, the Mexican peso is inexpensive and all of the reasons to visit the Nogales border tourism areas are still relevant.

Just remember to take the appropriate precautions of washing and sanitizing your hands, not touching your face, and maintaining the appropriate physical distance from others.

So, is it time to make a run for the border?

Nogales Dental Advanced
Arizona-Sonora website

Is it safe to travel in Sonora in 2020?

We have created a Sonora travel risk map, and will update the regions and colors as security situations change.

Sonora Travel Warning: Coronavirus Pandemic

The novel coronavirus has spread through the state of Sonora, with outbreaks in Sonora’s major cities and municipalities. Travel to Sonora is not recommended at this time, with the possible exception of brief visits across the border. Read more.

Increased Crime in Sonora

Despite coronavirus travel restrictions, the number of homicides and other violent crimes have continued to grow in Sonora in 2020. This is especially true in the municipalities of Guaymas (including San Carlos), Empalme, Cajeme (Ciudad Obregon) and Hermosillo.

Everything changed in 2019

Travelers to Sonora, Mexico have always been aware of inherent risks of traveling in a state where cartels control drug and human trafficking routes from the south of Mexico through Sonora to the United States.

Enjoying the state’s natural beauty whle perhaps having an uneasy recognition that killings and other bad things were happening all around, particularly at night, from a tourist perspective things seemed relatively calm.

And even though the U.S. State Department placed Sonora on a higher-risk list in 2018 asking tourists to reconsider travel to the state, foreigners were not targeted and tourism areas felt safe with no violent daytime incidents.

But all of that changed in 2019.

2019 in Sonora, Mexico

Crime steadily increased from April through the end of the year 2019 in Sonora, much of it focused in the municipalities of Guaymas, Empalme, Cajeme (Ciudad Obregon) and Hermosillo.

As the police and federal government armed forces response has evolved, more police officers and other public officials were murdered.

City officials from Guaymas, Agua Prieta and Benito Juárez were murdered.

And the situation has spilled over to 2020 as crime has exceeded 2019 records in Sonora, Mexico.

Increased violence

As violent crime began to increase in early 2019, two young men and their Uber driver died in a hail of gunfire as they were leaving San Carlos on Manlio Fabio Beltrones Rivera Boulevard.

In April, a shootout in the tourist city of San Carlos left a policeman dead. And Mexican Secretary of Security and Citizen Protection Alfonso Durazo Montaño announced that Hermosillo was next on the priority list for a deployment of federal National Guard troops.

Also in April, reports published by Hermosillo newspaper El Imparcial noted that Hermosillo ranks second nationally in the killings of women. And that 67 children had been killed in Sonoran “narco conflicts” since 2015.

As the summer weather heated up in Sonora, so did the violence in the state. Ten people were murdered in the state of Sonora on one day, Sunday, June 10, 2019. Four men and a woman were gunned down in the border city of Agua Prieta, and another four men died in a fusillade of gunfire in the nearby border town of Naco, Sonora. The tenth victim was murdered in Hermosillo. And that violence continued in June.

On June 6, gunmen entered the emergency room at a hospital in Guaymas to murder a man. It was the third time in five years that had happened.

Also in Guaymas, on June 20 the municipal comptroller of that municipality and another municipal employee were gunned down on the main Guaymas thoroughfare, Avenida Serdán. Just six months earlier, on October 4, 2018, five municipal police transit officers were murdered on that same street.

Violent crime exploded in Ciudad Obregon – Cajeme in June, with 63 murders reported during the month. During that time, the bodies of two murder victims were displayed in public.

Violence continued into the fall. In September, a 69-year-old municipal official in Agua Prieta was stangled and a taco vendor was gunned down outside of the police station in San Carlos. Nine members of the Langford and LeBaron families were murdered in November. At the end of November another public official, Pedro Alejandro Fernandez, the treasurer of the town of Benito Juárez, was killed by gunfire as he drove in a sedan with his wife.

Frequent violent crimes continued through the rest of the year and into the first two months of 2020, especially in the state’s problem areas of Ciudad Obregon, Empalme, Guaymas and Hermosillo.

Police killings

As the year 2019 started, local municipal police were being replaced by state police due to rampant local corruption of law enforcement by cartels. Tensions increase between the two groups, which resulted in shootouts and the murders of police officers.

In April, an officer was killed and a commander gravely wounded in the tourist area of San Carlos. Two Hermosillo police commanders were gunned down in May.

And in July, a police officer was murdered in the border town of San Luis Rio Colorado and two police officers were murdered in Guaymas.

On the day of the first murder of Guaymas police officer Marlon Gonzalez Juanqui outside of an Oxxo convenience store on July 2, his partner radioed “they are going to kill us all.” Guaymas’s municipal president Sara Valle Dessens took to the radio airwaves to caution citizens to avoid public areas as she suspended all public events for the day.

The second July Guaymas murder brought the total of police murdered in that city to 10 officials since the start of the current municipal administration in 2018.

And in September, three Sonora state police officers were gunned down in Ciudad Obregon, and two San Carlos police officers were ambushed by an armed group in a shootout at the San Carlos Marina.

National guard deployment

Violence continued in Sonoran urban areas during the summer, with 63 murders registered in the municipality of Cajeme (Ciudad Obregon) in June.

The Mexican federal government responded to the violence by sending in National Guard troops to help maintain order.

Thus far, troops have been deployed to Hermosillo, Guaymas, Empalme, Ciudad Obregon and Nogales. And there has been related violence as the Guard troops battle criminal groups.

Americans affected by increased violence

In years past, proponents of Sonora tourism (including me) would point to the fact that many murders in Sonora were between members of rival crime groups and that crime did not affect foreign visitors. That changed in 2019.

In April, tourists waiting at the Empalme Only Sonora state for their Only Sonora permits to visit Southern Sonora were surprised by armed thieves. The carjackers stole their Jeep Cherokee and Lincoln Navigator. The tourists were unharmed.

And on November 4 members of the Langford and LeBaron families were gunned down on a remote Sonora highway in acts of unspeakable horror. A group of three vehicles came under automatic gunfire from criminal elements.

Nine members of the family were killed – three women and six children – and six children were injured. One of the vehicles was incinerated, burning a mother, her two adolescent children and two infants alive.

State Department Travel Advisory for Sonora

Following is the State Department’s 2020 Travel Warning for Sonora, as of February 2020:

Sonora state – Level 3: Reconsider Travel

Reconsider travel due to crime.

Sonora is a key location used by the international drug trade and human trafficking networks.

U.S. government employees traveling to and from Hermosillo may travel between the border crossing points of DeConcini and Mariposa in Nogales only during daylight hours and only on Highway 15, including stops at restaurant/restroom facilities along Highway 15.

U.S. government employees may travel to Puerto Peñasco via the Lukeville/Sonoyta crossing during daylight hours on Federal Highway 8, or by using Federal Highway 15 south from Nogales and east via Federal Highway 2 and State Highway 37 through Caborca during daylight hours. U.S. government employees may also travel directly from the nearest U.S. Ports of Entry to San Luis Rio Colorado, Cananea, and Agua Prieta but may not go beyond the city limits without official Consulate Nogales clearance.

U.S. government employees may not travel to:

  • The triangular region west of the Mariposa Port of Entry, east of Sonoyta, and north of Altar
  • The district within Nogales that lies to the north of Avenida Instituto Tecnologico and between Periferico (Bulevar Luis Donaldo Colosio) and Corredor Fiscal (Federal Highway 15D), and the residential areas to the east of Plutarco Elias Calles.
  • The eastern edge of the state of Sonora, which borders the state of Chihuahua: all points along that border east of Federal Highway 17, the road between Moctezuma and Sahuaripa, and State Highway 20 between Sahuaripa and the intersection with Federal Highway 16.
  • All points south of Federal Highway 16 and east of Highway 15 (south of Hermosillo), as well as Empalme, Guaymas, and all points south, including Obregon and Navojoa. U.S. government employees may travel to Alamos by air only and may not go beyond the city limits.

In addition, U.S. government employees may not use taxi services in Nogales.

The Sonoran coastal community of Puerto Lobos
Kino Mission Nuestra Señora del Pilar y Santiago de Cocóspera
Sonoran traditions - Dia de San Juan Bautista in Pueblo Viejo, Navojoa, Sonora
Temple of Our Lady of Balvanera in La Aduana, Sonora, Mexico

August Is the Deadliest Month of 2019 in Hermosillo

Violent Murders on the Increase in Hermosillo

Sonoran newspaper El Imparcial reported this morning that August is already the most violent month this year in the state capital of Hermosillo. As of yesterday, when two people were murdered in gun violence, 38 people have been killed in Hermosillo in August. That brings the 2019 total of murders in the capital city to 160, just 15 fewer than all of 2018.

There were more “malicious homicides” in the municipality of Cajeme, which includes the city of Ciudad Obregon. Cajeme experienced 167 violent deaths through the end of July. There were 63 murders in that municipality in the month of June.

There were also dozens of bodies recovered earlier this year from killing fields in Cajeme, near Ciudad Obregon. 

There were 537 violent deaths in the state of Sonora, Mexico through the end of July. Most of the violence occurred in the areas of Hermosillo, Ciudad Obregon (Cajeme), Guaymas – San Carlos and Empalme.

We advise that you exercise extreme caution when visiting or driving through those areas, especially at night.

Top Places to See and Things to Do in Sonora, Mexico

Best of Sonora Tourism

Top things to see, do and enjoy in Sonora, Mexico
The Southern Sonora coastal community of Huatabampito, Sonora, Mexico

There is lots to see and do in Sonora – something for everyone

Sonora is the second-largest state in Mexico with respect to size, and the third-largest in terms of population. It has a rich history and offers a diversity of natural environments and ecosystems, fascinating native cultures and loads of fun things to do, all of which make Sonora a fun and enriching tourism destination.

Where to Begin?

With such an immense area of land and variety of travel and tourism options, we recommend that you start at the top. Pick a main area of interest, be it resort travel, border tourism, indigenous culture or the beach – then review and dig down in the information on your favorite topic or two, to get some travel ideas. And if you have any questions, feel free to contact us. Here are some ideas to get you started:

Relax and Enjoy a Coastal Resort City

Sonora has two major tourism resort cities – San Carlos and Puerto Peñasco (also known as Rocky Point).

Rocky Point is closer to the Arizona-Sonora international border and can therefore be accessed more quickly by car (or other vehicle). It is a tourist town, with shopping, bars, sunset cruises and other tourist-centric activities to enjoy within hours of the border.

San Carlos is an eight-hour drive from the border but you can also get there by flying to a regional airport in Hermosillo or Ciudad Obregon, renting a car and driving the rest of the way. San Carlos is known for its deep-sea fishing, wonderful cuisine, luxury hotels and beautiful, scenic beaches. And there are lots of other activities to enjoy there as well.

Experience a Cultural Event

There are many opportunities to observe and participate in Sonora cultural events, from parades and civic celebrations to indigenous religious festivals on events like the feast day of Saint John the Baptist. Check out our quarterly and monthly events calendars to see if you find a special event of interest to you.

Explore the Capital of Hermosillo

Hermosillo, with approximately 650,000 residents, is the cultural, business, governmental and educational center of Sonora. The city has several cultural events during the year, like the annual celebration of its founding, the Festival del Pitic. Enjoy a few days exploring the restaurants, museums, churches, parks and shopping districts of the Sonoran Capital. Read more about exploring Hermosillo.

Hit the Beach

Sonora has hundreds of miles of coastline along the Gulf of California, also known as the Sea of Cortez. Activities include boating, sport fishing, kayaking or just relaxing on the beach. Whether it is a more secluded beach area like Huatabampito or Desemboque, or a more commercialized area like Kino Bay, Rocky Point or San Carlos Bay, you can enjoy a relaxing beach vacation in Sonora. Read more about coastal Sonora.

Visit a Magical Pueblo

Sonora has two towns that have the national distinction of being designated Pueblos Mágicos, or magical towns. In order to receive this prestigious designation, a locale must show that it has charming tourism places to visit, good lodging and restaurants, and other characteristics that make it a special place to visit.

There are two Pueblos Mágicos in Sonora, and they are both very special places to visit. Magdalena de Kino, Sonora is a short drive from the border at Nogales, and Alamos, Sonora is located in the southern region of Sonora.

Visit a Border City

Sonora shares a common border with Arizona, and its border cities are not only very accessible but offer a variety of activities, products and services to enjoy. The main Arizona-Sonora border communities of Nogales, San Luis and Agua Prieta all have their individual flair, but also offer common experiences.

Find beautiful arts and crafts along with creative tourist curio products in border stores, and haggle to get the best price. Enjoy an authentic Mexican meal and get a taste of Mexico (although many claim it is not the “real” Mexico by walking around and seeing churches, statues and plazas. Shop border pharmacies to see if you can find your prescription medications at a discount. And visit a Mexican dentist or doctor to have dental and medical issues treated at a discount. Read more about the Sonora border.

Enjoy a Sonora Ecotourism Experience

Sonora’s variety of climates and ecosystems offer fabulous outdoor experiences for tourists to enjoy. From kayaking and fishing on the coast to hiking, mountain biking, cultural immersion, seeing ancient rock-art petroglyphs and other adventures, there are many options to explore.

The best way to experience Sonora ecotourism is to participate in a tour. See a list of Sonora ecotourism operators. Research the tour company to see if they have insurance and roadworthy vehicles, and whether they offer English-language tours. Read more about Sonora ecotourism.

Whatever you enjoy doing, be it enjoying history and culture, urban exploration or experiencing the natural environment, you can have a great tourism experience in Sonora, Mexico. Questions? Contact us.

Along the Malecon in Rocky Point, Puerto Penasco Sonora
Hacienda de los Santos Resort - Alamos, Sonora, Mexico
Nahuatl performers in a Caborca 6 de abril parade
Instagram for Explore-Sonora
Palacio del Gobierno Sonora - Hermosillo, Mexico
Sonoran traditions - Dia de San Juan Bautista in Pueblo Viejo, Navojoa, Sonora
Ancient rock art petroglyphs at Rancho Puerto Blanco, near Caborca

January 2018 State Department Mexico Travel Warning

January 2018 State Department Mexico Travel Warnings

Travel advisories for Mexico and Sonora

January 2018 State Department Mexico Travel Warning

Recommends that travelers reconsider travel plans to Sonora

The US State Department has issued an advisory that advises Americans with travel plans to visit Sonora, Mexico to reconsider those travel plans due to increased crime in the state of Sonora. While we still think that Sonora is a very safe place to visit (when using proper precautions), the warning has some merit.

The U.S. State Department issued its latest Mexico Travel Advisory on January 10, 2018, in conjunction with a State Department Fact Sheet that announced a new advisory system for international travel.

Both announced updates to how the State Department provides traveler information and advisories. Read more here.

Among the changes is a new four-category system of rating a nation or region within that country with respect to potential safety concerns, ranking areas from “1” (Exercise Normal Precautions) to “4” (Do Not Travel).

The state of Sonora, Mexico, along with other Mexican states along the U.S.-Mexico border, received a designation of “3” (Reconsider Travel), meaning that anyone with plans to visit Sonora should reconsider their travel plans. The rationale for the given designation was with a letter “C,” for crime – “widespread violent or organized crime is present in areas of the country.”

As always, the State Department has provided very general information with no specific sources or examples for the “C” rating assigned to Sonora. It also fell short in connecting the risk of increased crime to its potential connection with or impact on tourists and other visitors.

In fact, the only event in Sonora where they issued an alert in 2017 was for a January protest weekend on the border in Nogales, Sonora.

Here is the text regarding travel in Sonora, from the State Department’s International Travel Country Information Page for Mexico:

Sonora state – Level 3: Reconsider Travel

Reconsider travel due to crime. Sonora is a key location utilized by the international drug trade and human trafficking networks. However, northern Sonora experiences much lower levels of crime than cities closer to Sinaloa and other parts of Mexico. U.S. government employees visiting Puerto Peñasco must use the Lukeville/Sonoyta crossing, and they are required to travel during daylight hours on main roads.

U.S. government employees are prohibited from travel to:

  • The triangular region west of Nogales, east of Sonoyta, and north of Altar.
  • The eastern edge of the state of Sonora, which borders the state of Chihuahua (all points along that border east of Federal Highway 17, the road between Moctezuma and Sahuaripa, and state Highway 20 between Sahuaripa and the intersection with Federal Highway 16).
  • South of Hermosillo, with the exception of the cities of Alamos, San Carlos, Guaymas, and Empalme.

Is Sonora, Mexico Safe?

It is a shame that federal government employees cannot visit some of the marvelous locales in Southern Sonora like Navojoa and the beaches of Huatabampito. However, the State Department is right in erring on the side of caution, not only because Sonora can be a very dangerous place, but because levels of crime, especially in Sonoran cities, have increased over the past few years.

Due to its geographic location and proximity to the United States, Sonora has major smuggling corridors for the transport of drugs and humans across the border.

And in recent years Sonora has seen an increase in street crime, murders and assaults.

Just last year, summertime machete assaults shocked residents of Hermosillo and spread to other cities in Sonora. Retailers in Caborca demanded that the city’s municipal president do something to stop the high levels of robberies and theft, a movement that generated a response from local and state authorities. And residents of other cities also protested increased crime and insecurity.

And no discussion of how safe it is to visit Sonora should neglect mentioning the impact of the “Fast and Furious” debacle orchestrated by the Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco and Firearms (ATF), the Justice Department, the U.S. Attorney in Phoenix and others, which resulted in the flow of thousands of automatic and semi-automatic weapons from Arizona into Sonora.

Although the program was ended, it resulted in well-armed criminal elements south of the border, and the flow of illegal weapons continues today.

However, as we and others point out, almost none of the crime and threats of crime affect tourists who stay in tourism areas and follow basic travel safety rules.

Conclusion

From a personal perspective, I have traveled in various parts of Sonora, Mexico for nearly 25 years and have never been assaulted, robbed or the victim of violent crime. On the contrary, I have always found the people of Sonora to be very friendly and helpful to visitors.

In fact, a week after the State Department issued its warnings and advisories I rented a car and took a week-long trip from Southern Sonora to Northern Sonora and the border, which included stops along the coast of the Gulf of California, border cities and the towns in the Rio Sonora region. I met a lot of great people, saw interesting and beautiful places and had an enjoyable time. Read more about my trip.

Ultimately the decision to visit and explore Sonora is yours, and will depend on your judgment and individual travel experience, plans and risk mitigation. If you would feel more comfortable traveling in a guided tour group, you can learn more about that here.

Safe travels.